Over time concrete pools can become discoloured from many sources. Age, water chemistry, droppings in the pool from tree leaves, acorns, pine needles and even algae. These stains are either organic or metalic. When it is time to clean the pools surface it is a highly skilled trade. Draining the pool to start has many factors to look at so that your pool doesn't lift out of the ground from the surrounding ground water that is underneath the pools surface. Unless you know what you are doing, it is not recomended for the average home owner to tackle this alone, as it could end up costing thousands of dollars to repair cracked concrete or a pool that has lifted up right out of the ground from the ground water pressure below the pools shell.

Once the pool is professionally emptied, we use a high pressure power washer to remove the surface debris that has accumilated over the walls and floor. This process is most effective when use with a mixture of Muratic Acid & TSP (Tri-Sodium Phosphate). All chemicals that are used is diluted to safe environmental standards and discarded accordingly to the area  of the pools surroundings. Nothing is over looked during preperation of a complete renovation of your pool. Any repairs will be noted and advised to the home owner for cost of repairs and the time it should take to make the pool back to its original state.

Any items in the pool that cannot be removed as they are apart of the pools surface, such as return lines, light fixtures and niches, hand rails, rope assembles, and ladder equipment will be taped over before any paint is applied to the pool. There are 3 types of Pool Paint, Epoxy, Rubber Base, & Acrylic. All 3 are very difficult to remove once they have had time to cure properly, preperation is a key to a successful renovation. Pool Paint comes in a variety of colours, and depending on your tile coping we can help you make a decesion on what colour to use to compliment the tile coping and deck area. 

In this picture you can see how preperation is as important as painting the pool. Painters tape is always used to cover the tile and grout, and on some pools we'll even place a cover over from the bottom of the tile up and over the deck coping to ensure there is no spalsh of paint on the deck. Pool Paint is prepared in many different forms, so each pool has its own unique requirement when it comes to doing the job right the first time. Another key factor is when and where we are painting a pool. We'll cover that below, so please keep reading.

Once the first coat is applied we install over the pool a leaf net which ensure no debris such as leaves will fall or be blown into the pool while the paint is curing. The best time to paint your pool is during the summer months. June, July & August are ideal as the trees have already grown their leaves, which ensures a clean pool finish, warm weather for a quick cure rate of the paint, the ground water from the winter months and spring rain has had enough time to settle.  A pool can be painted anytime from April to November, but during the cooler season it does take the paint awhile longer to dry. Some Paint products can be installed with one coat while others take two to three coats. This is not the paint being to thin to paint with, rather the walls and floor of the pool will absorb more paint during the initial coating. After the first coat dries, you may see certain areas of the pool look "patchy" or slightly lighter than other areas, these are the spots where the pools surface has pulled the paint into the surface. The second coat will cover the pool entirely and uniform. Rarely is a third coat required, but we have seen it in the past and it is a easy fix.

Pools that are painted in early April & May or Mid September to November will be covered with a tent. During these months rain is almost a daily occurance. Falling leaves, rain, pollen, windy days, seedlings are always trying to play with the process. Tents or a canopy can be installed over most pools providing there is enough space for the installation or available places to safety secure a canopy over the pools perimeter. Proper ventilation is extremely important. 

Once the pool paint has dried completely, we then reinstall the hydrastatic valve in the main drain, replace the covers and return outlets, pool rope, ladders, handrails and lights back into their niches and begin to fill the pool slowly. Filling your concrete pool with your garden hose is ideal. We prefer to use your garden hose for a couple of reasons. The number one reason and the most important is so that we can refill the pool slowly. This will ensure that the shell does not crack or split from the weight of the water being added instantly from a truck. Think of it like this, 1L of water weighs approximately 1Kg, a truck will deliver 10 to 15K Liters of water and will empty within a few minutes, that instant amount of weigh could shock the concrete and possibly crack the pool. A typical size swimming pool that is 16x32 with a shallow end of 3' and a deep end of 8' is approximately 79740 Liters of water & usually takes 24 to 36 hours to fill with your garden hose and is alot cheaper than it is to bring in water from a water truck. Water trucks are generally used for pools where no local city water is available.

 WARNING...The above information is for reading material only. DO NOT ATTEMPT to use materials listed above unless you are a trained professional. These chemicals are very dangerous and reactive if not used properly.

Muriatic Acid is a highly reactive liquid acid, and one of the most dangerous chemicals you can purchase for use. It is an industrial-strength solution of hydrogen chloride gas dissolved in water, also known as hydrochloric acid. With the exception of some plastics, muriatic acid can damage most anything it touches, including clothing, metal, and skin! It emits a suffocating odor that can quickly burn the lining of the nose, throat and even the lungs.

Phosphoric acid will, under most circumstances, do as good a job as muriatic acid... but with less danger.  Phosphoric acid cleaners also contain chemicals which emulsify oils to help the acid work more effectively and safely increase its cleaning properties.

TSP (trisodium phosphate) is another formidable heavy-duty cleaning product and can be used to clean surfaces that are going to be left uncoated.  TSP does not etch or neutralize the surface alkalinity, so surface testing for pH should be done before coating TSP-cleaned masonry.  Due to environmental concerns of phosphate pollution, TSP cannot be legally used in some areas.

DO NOT MIX TSP WITH ANY ACID!!  A violent reaction can occur and the release of noxious gas.  You can use both products, but they must be used separately with a thorough rinsing with water between applications. Please leave these chemical agents to a trained professional so that you do not harm yourself or others in the area. They are highly corrosive and noxious and can kill you if used incorrectly.